About 300 years ago, a hunter went into the mountains pursuing a deer he had failed to kill.

Three days later, the hunter found the deer, which was supposed to have been wounded, but it dodged and ran agilely over a rock.

The hunter curiously searched the area and found a hot spring, according to the story.

The name “Shikayu” came from such a legend, and the acidic nature of the water led to the names “Sukayu” and “Sukayu” being changed. (Although there are said to be various theories about this.)

This hot spring, Sukayu Onsen, is at an altitude of 925 meters at the foot of Mt. Hakkoda.

The hot water of Sangayu is a milky white sulfur spring. From the moment you get off the bus, you are enveloped by the smell of sulfur, which lingers slightly on your skin for a while.

It is so strongly acidic that you can feel its sourness when you lick the water a little, and it is free-flowing hot-spring water.

The most distinctive feature of the Acugayu Hot Springs is the famous “Hiba Senjinburo” (bath for 1,000 people), a bathtub made entirely of Aomori hiba (cypress).

The baths are made entirely of Aomori hiba (cypress). They are an impressive structure of approximately 80 tsubo (160 tatami mats) without a single pillar. Hiba wood contains many antibacterial and insect-resistant components and is known for its resistance to water and decay. It is a building material chosen not only for its beautiful appearance but also for rational reasons.

Since its opening in 1684, the inn has flourished as a therapeutic bathhouse. It is said to have been a bustling town with a barbershop, a clinic, and a daycare center when it was mainly used for long-term guests. 340 years of its history when people commuted to Sourgayu by horse and foot, Kayano teahouse (now known as The Kayano teahouse (now Hyotan teahouse) must have been a valuable resting place for people who needed to rest their feet.

In 1936, the Towada area was designated as a national park, and in 1956, the Hachimantai area was added to what is now Towada-Hachimantai National Park.

Meanwhile, in 1954, Sukayu was designated Japan’s first national hot spring resort for its outstanding efficacy, abundant hot spring gush, vast accommodations, and pure environment; it became well-known throughout the country.

The way to spend a hot-spring cure is to bathe for about 15 to 20 minutes, lie down on a futon for about an hour, and repeat 5 or 6 times a day while acclimating. The body warms up from the core, so much that one can feel the phrase, “Raising the basal body temperature is effective against all illnesses.

The Onsen Ryokeikyo Counseling Room is staffed by a qualified nurse, which is reassuring.

It is also known as one of the few hot springs in Japan where mixed bathing is still practiced.

The “Hiba Senninburo (Hiba tree thousand-people bath),” which has four sources: hot water, cold water, quarter hot water, and Yutaki, is a mixed bath with no washing area, just a soaking area. If you want to shower or use soap, you can do so in the “Tama-no-yu” baths, which are separate for men and women.

Many people hesitate when they hear that the bathhouse is mixed. Still, because one-piece gowns (Yuami-gi) can be rented for 500 yen, the entrance is separate, the water is milky white, and there are screens inside the bathhouse, I did not notice any stares while bathing. I was able to enter with surprisingly little hesitation. (I heard that one can see almost nothing in winter due to the steam from the hot water.)

In addition, the protocols are written by the “Association to Protect Mixed Bathing.” Also, women-only hours are set for mornings and evenings, so you can see that various modern innovations have been made to protect the long-established practice for the comfort of mixed bathing.

The inn is also known as a favorite of the print artist Shiko Munakata, and many of his works are displayed in the building.

For dinner, guests can choose between a simple traditional menu called “Toji-shoku” (Touji meal) and a Japanese-style kaiseki meal with many dishes.

Although simple, the dishes are full of freshly picked wild vegetables, mushrooms, soaked chrysanthemum flowers, and other mountain delicacies and are deeply satisfying and flavorful. (The photo shows a Toji meal, especially the Miso Chanko with nourishing pork (bottom right), which was amazingly delicious.)

Another enjoyable part of your stay will be the ginger miso oden, an Aomori specialty, available at the store. Next door, there is the soba noodle restaurant Onimen-an, where you can enjoy sansai soba noodles made with spring water from Mt. Hakkouda and their specialty, soba pudding. The soba pudding is moderately sweet, and both the pudding and the caramel have a savory aroma of soba nuts.

To learn more about Sukayu’s past and present, I interviewed Mr. Takada, the International Project Leader of the Accommodation Sales Section at Sukayu Onsen Co.

In Sukayu Onsen, you feel your senses are naturally opened. The pungent smell of sulfur, the pleasantly hot water, the sensation of being warmed to the core, the brief communion with neighbors, the chirping of birds, the sound of insects, the sound of rain, the faint, soft light through the shoji screens, the shadows of trees swaying in the wind.

Depending on the season, it may be the silence in the deep snow or the smell of fresh green beech trees.

The ability to feel the presence of the outside world close at hand is a quality unique to old-fashioned buildings.

One of the enchanting aspects of wooden buildings, with their broad roofs and long eaves, sliding shoji screens that invite a hint of sunlight, and airy porches, is their seamless transition and the serene balance they strike between the inner and outer realms.

Here in Sangayu, the gentle origins of this place, where people once gathered for a hot spring cure, have fostered a sense of tranquility. This tranquility has, in turn, safeguarded various customs, including the rare mixed bathing culture that still endures today.

Recently, to help people experience the beauty of Japanese-style rooms, he has produced a limited series of two rooms with framed shoji screens. These screens allow guests to delicately feel the changing world outside. Mr. Takada himself was in charge of the shoji paper screens.

Guests can choose between a room with a writing desk or a chabudai (tea table), both of which are suitable for writing.

(Reservations can only be made through the official reservation website)

In July, there is the “Ushi-yu Festival,” where the custom remains that “if you soak in a hot spring bath on the day of the Ox of Doyou (around 1~3 a.m.), you will be safe and sound.

In winter, they plan various fun events such as the “Snow Tea Room” and “Igloo Cafe,” where you can enjoy powdered green tea in an igloo (a dome-shaped snow cone made of snow piled on tiles). The content changes slightly each year to provide a variety of customer enjoyment.

It is a place to return to every season.

Written by Mikami

Onsen lover. Born in Okayama, used to live in Kobe, Osaka and Tokyo. Moved to Aomori City two years ago. Likes films and traveling, and is the person behind Serendip Trip.